Thursday, April 25, 2013

Causes and Remedies For Dog Tear Stains


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Causes and Remedies For Dog Tear Stains

 
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Depending on what breed of dog you may have, they may sometimes shed tears that are significantly colored, unlike human tears. These tears can cause stains in their coat or fur, and the color varies per breed of dog. It is the majority of white or light colored dogs who experience dog tear stains, most probably due to their light color, making the stain quite visible and distinguishable. It is not just because these breeds have lighter coat color; it is also because they may have excess hair over their skin folds, especially around their eyes. Having extra fur on these areas may cause the blocking of tear ducts. Some breeds that exhibit dog tear stains include: Poodles, Cocker spaniels, Pekinese, Shi-Tzu, Maltese and the Pug. The causes and remedies for dog tear stains will be covered below.

Causes and Remedies for Dog Tear Stains

The causes and remedies for dog tear stains naturally vary from breed to breed so how do dog tear stains develop? It all begins with the dog’s tear ducts. If these ducts get blocked, they will not be able to drain out the tears from the eyes. There are a lot of circumstances that gets the dog’s tear duct blocked. These can include growing hair around the eye area, having shallow eye sockets and having eyelids that turn inward. As a result, dog tear staining can occur.

So what are you to do with your dog? The first thing to know is why your dog sheds tears with stains. Some dogs shed excessive tears because it is in their bloodline or a genetic trait. There can also be a different medical cause, such as a skin irritation or an allergy. Some of the common causes of excessive tearing of a dog are: injuries, hair getting into the eyes, dry eyes, glaucoma, corneal ulcers, eye infection, cataracts inflammation, and allergic reactions.

These different causes for dog tearing need to be observed in your dog. If you suspect he or she has an allergic reaction, then find the source of the allergy (called an allergen). Your dog may have a skin infection or irritation, ask your vet what makes the dog itch and scratch, especially if the itching gets to the eyes. Some dogs have really long fur around their eyes, making them itchy if not properly clipped or trimmed. If you have a long coated dog this should be an important factor of grooming, as you would want to groom your dog not just to make him or her presentable, but also make your pooch feel more comfortable.

You can check with your local veterinarian for causes and remedies for dog tear stains and they will be able to provide you with a good solution for this issue. For a home remedy, you can prepare a simple concoction to remove the tear stains from your dog’s fur. Prepare a teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide and corn starch. Mix them together to form a thick paste and apply it to your dog’s stained fur while taking care this solution does not get into your dog’s eyes. Let it sit for two hours and then wipe it gently using a damp cloth. Brush the fur afterwards. These are a few of the causes and remedies for dog tear stains.

Is Your Dog Walking You?


Is Your Dog Walking You?

 
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Are you and your pooch having a battle of the wills over who walks who as you stroll down the sidewalk? If so don’t feel bad, as this is the case with many dog owners who have yet to take control of the situation. Let us see if we can correct this issue of your dog walking you back to you walking your dog.

To curb your dog walking you instead of the other way around as it should be, you have to understand all dogs must learn they are actually tethered to you when going out the door for a walk. Sounds simple but a dog does not understand this until you teach him you still have control over his movements via the leash.

When you and your pooch go out for the first walk together this is the time to establish control so your dog understands he or she is expected to behave in an acceptable manner. Those dog owners who fail with this initial training end up as one of your dog walking you people we so often see. Fighting with your dog by constantly pulling back on the leash is going to discourage you and your dog from taking daily walks and instill in the dog he or she has control over any training situation you become involved in. So you must establish from the very beginning the dog will obey your commands and walk as expected.

There are two great tools to aid you in training your dog to walk in a manner acceptable and less demanding on you. First is the leader harness and the gentle leader. These two dog walking aids are great for training the dog and they are not going to break your budget to purchase. Using treats, in conjunction with either of these two dog walking tools, as a reward for the dog when he or she walks as you desire, is a quick and easy way to train the dog.

The leash is designed to fit over the dogs muzzle and head. When he or she tries to dart off after a cat, car, other dog, or is simple pulling way to hard the leash brings the dog to a slow, gentle stop while turning their head back in your direction. The harness works in the same manner except you have head and body control with this aid.

Give either one of these a try and soon you will be strolling down the path with a well behaved pooch. No more of your dog walking you and all the frustrations that goes with this constant tug of war.

Does your dog behave when out for walks? Please leave your thoughts and comments below.

Dealing with Your Dog’s Seasonal Allergies

Dealing with Your Dog’s Seasonal Allergies

 

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Spring is finally here. And with it, seasonal allergies! Unfortunately, humans aren’t the only ones faced with seasonal allergies. It’s common that many dogs will be too once the allergy season starts. Canine allergies are normally caused by the same triggers that occur in human allergies: our pooch’s immune system comes across an allergen or a kind of antigen it dislikes and then responds in the same manner as our body does. These allergens normally include mold and mildew, pollen, and dust mites. The good thing is that there are several ways for us to treat seasonal allergies in our dog.

Common Signs and Symptoms
Allergies in canines usually present themselves in the form of skin inflammation or irritation, also referred to as allergic dermatitis. This condition normally results in Fido’s skin becoming extremely itchy.  To relieve the itchiness, your dog will scratch himself excessively, and chew or bite certain parts of his body. He might even rub himself against the carpet, furniture, or wall. As this disturbing itch-and-scratch cycle persists, your pooch’s skin will eventually become inflamed and sore to the touch. Hair loss, hot spots, scabbing, and open sores on Fido’s skin may also be observed. Other symptoms can include ear infection, respiratory symptoms like watery eyes, sneezing, and runny nose, and generalized redness.

How to Help Fido Cope with Seasonal Allergies
1. To provide your dog with complete, immediate relief from itchiness, try to wash away the allergens on his coat and skin by giving him frequent baths. Look for a dog shampoo specially formulated for inflamed or sensitive skin.

2. To lessen the significant amount of allergens that Fido tracks and spread all over your house is to wash his paws thoroughly each time he comes inside the house.

3. Try keeping the spots in your place where your pooch spends most of his time as free from allergens as possible. Do this by cleaning and vacuuming the floors and his bedding on a regular basis using non-toxic house cleaning agents.

4. Since allergies are basically an immune system response, it’s crucial for you to keep Fido’s immune function at its optimum levels. To do this, avoid any unnecessary vaccination and medication and make sure he’s eating a well-balanced, species appropriate diet free of unnecessary fillers and animal by-products.

5. If your dog is highly susceptible to seasonal allergies, see to it that his diet is remarkably low in grain content since foods rich in carbohydrates can trigger and worsen inflammation.
The same ways that you cope with seasonal allergies will only help your dog as well. Make sure air conditioner filters are changed every month, use a vacuum with an allergen filter, and maintain a healthy diet.

For mild allergic reactions and mild itching, your vet can recommend an antihistimine or provide the proper dosage of over-the-counter allergy medication to treat him.

Dog Dangers: Common OTC Medications that are Poisoning Our Pets

Dog Dangers: Common OTC Medications that are Poisoning Our Pets

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Most owners of a dog with allergies, either seasonal or skin-related, are all too familiar with the redness, itching, and discomfort that our dogs can experience during a flare-up.
To ease our dogs’ discomfort and allergy symptoms, many veterinarians are recommending, even prescribing, certain human over-the-counter antihistimines as a safe, effective treatment for our dog’s itch and redness.
However, many pet parents are making a grave mistake when purchasing these medications. More and more antihistimines on store shelves today, marketed to humans, contain ingredients in addition to just the antihistimines. In an effort to create a one-pill solution to human allergy symptoms, drug manufacturers are adding decongestants into the mix. These decongestants, when given to a dog produce serious, often deadly side effects including increased heart rate, respiratory problems to hyperexcitability with muscle tremors, seizures, and hyperactivity. Vomiting, dilated pupils, increased body temperature, disorientation, heart rhythm abnormalities, even retinal detachment and blindness in some cases.

While it is perfectly safe, upon your veterinarian’s recommendation and dosage, to treat a dog’s allergies with over-the-counter antihistimines, certain brands containing a decongestant or other medication must be avoided.

To be safe, choose the following brands when shopping for your dogs:
Benadryl, Tavist, Claritin, Chlortrimeton, or an off-brand equivalent.


However, be certain that the brand you choose ONLY contains an antihistimine and NOT a decongestant. Specific brands to avoid are:

Contac, Actifed, Sudafed, Tavist-D, Claritin-D, or any other brand antihistimine with “D” added to the name, indicating that a decongestant has been added.  Many times a “D” will be added to the name to indicate the medicine includes a decongestant, but read your labels very carefully before dispensing any OTC pills to your pets, and do it only with your vet’s recommendation.


In any case, be sure to consult your veterinarian before administering any medications, particularly those designed for humans. If your dog ingests any OTC medication containing a decongestant, immediately seek out an emergency veterinarian.

Monday, April 22, 2013

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Frisco Dog Park Talks with Dr. Julaine Hunter

Frisco Dog Park Talks with Dr. Julaine Hunter

Date/Time
Date(s) - Sunday, April 28, 2013
2:00 PM - 2:30 PM
julaine_and_puppy5
Dr. Julaine Hunter will present a series of Dog Park Talks that will cover a variety of dog behavior, training, care and dog park topics.
April 28: Dogs and Puppies
Frisco Dog Park Website:
http://www.friscodogpark.org/
For More Information, contact Event Organizers at:
sam@powerpublicrelations.com
(972) 292-6506

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Texas Coalition for Animal Protection Low Cost Vaccines

Texas Coalition for Animal Protection Low Cost Vaccines

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
1:00 PM - 3:00 PM TCAP will offer low cost vaccines, microchipping and heartworm testing on a walk-in basis.
Dogs
Rabies:$5
DHPP:$10
Bordetella:$10
Heartworm:$20
Heartworm Preventative:$25-$35
Canine Influenza:$15
Lepto$10
Cats
Rabies: $5
FVRCP: $10
FelV: $10
FelV/FIV Test: $20

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Woof Gang Bakery NRH Hosts the North American Shar Pei Rescue

Woof Gang Bakery NRH Hosts the North American Shar Pei Rescue

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
12:00 PM - 4:00 PM chinese_shar_pei_2
Woof Gang Bakery North Richland Hills is looking forward to hosting an adoption event with the North American Shar Pei Rescue from 12-4! Come & meet these pups!
Woof Gang Bakery is located at:
9147 Hwy 26 #490 near Kroger
North Richland Hills, Tx 76180

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 FETCH!

FETCH!

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
11:00 AM - 3:00 PM fetch_official_logo
A fund-raising event benefiting DFW Labrador Retreiver Rescue and Operation Kindness.
Fun for those with or without dogs…our generous sponsors are providing hot dogs, refreshments, a dog trainer available to answer your questions, an animal communicator that can “read your paw”, and a professional pet photographer. We will also offer low-cost microchipping, goodies from a local “barkery” and enter a raffle to have a pet portrait painted by a local artist.
And of course meet some great dogs from both DFW Lab Rescue, Operation Kindness and learn about these awesome organizations.

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Poochfest

Poochfest

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
9:00 AM - 1:00 PM

Poochfest – Family Friendly Event!
200 S. Jefferson St
Irving, Tx. 75060
9am to 1pm

Pooch Contests, entertainment, IPD k-9 Unit and pet friendly vendors. Free Pet play area!
$10 to enter all contests including look alike, costume,talent best mutt and tail wagger!
On site registration form 9-10:15am – contest starts at 10:30am
Entertainment by Dallas Dog and Disk Club
Vendors wanted!
$25 for 10×10 space
$50 for 10×20 space
  • Bring your own tables and chairs
  • No electricity
  • Generators not allowed
Come join the fun!
poochfest_vendors_wanted_flyer

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Hot Diggity Dog Jog

Hot Diggity Dog Jog

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
7:30 AM - 11:30 AM Sat, April 27
Check-in begins at 7:30 AM
5K Race begins at 8:30 AM
1 Mile Walk begins at 9:30 AM
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Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013 Strut Your Mutt 2013

Strut Your Mutt 2013

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013
7:00 AM - 12:30 PM

Strut Your Mutt 2013 – Saturday, April 27th

Presented by VCA Animal Hospital Companies


We Want You to Join the Pack!

Help us kick off the SPCA of Texas’ 75th Anniversary Celebration at Strut Your Mutt 2013. This year, it’s bigger, with even more doggone FUN activities!
You and your dog can strut the family-friendly 3K, or try the new “Wag Your Tail” timed 5K. Families will rock out to Radio Disney while they bounce, giggle and play in the Puppy Pals Kids Zone. “Woof” down delicious food in our Hos-PAW-tality Area, and cheer on four-legged champs at the agility course.
It’s all to raise more than $200,000 for the SPCA of Texas’ life-saving rescue and shelter programs. You can make a big difference – so register today!

Local Dog friendly Events-April 27, 2013- Dallas Air Dogs Dock Jumping Trial & Grand Opening!

Dallas Air Dogs Dock Jumping Trial & Grand Opening!

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 27, 2013 - Sunday, April 28, 2013
12:00 AM dallasairdogsDallas Air Dogs is hosting its Grand Opening and trial competition, April 27 – 28, 2013, featuring dock diving and distance jumping canine performances and competition in a huge 40-foot pool at D/FW’s new Dallas Air Dogs facility. Check-in and Practice begins at 8am with 3 Splashes on Saturday and 2 Splashes on Sunday.
pr040813_dallas_air_dogs_grand_openingWebsite: http://www.dallasairdogs.com
Email: info@dallasairdogs.com

Category(ies)

Local Dog friendly Events-April 26, 2013 Friday Night Jumps n’ Tunnels (4-Week Class)

Friday Night Jumps n’ Tunnels (4-Week Class)

Date/Time
Date(s) - Friday, April 26, 2013
6:30 PM - 7:30 PM dctc_logo6A fun and easy-going way to bring in the weekend! Friday night Jumps n’ Tunnels is a class that features just that, jumps n’ tunnels! Encourage your dog to conquer new obstacles while having tons of fun, getting tons of rewards, and getting lots of exercise! Once the dogs are introduced to the obstacles it’s all about running and fun! Anyone and any dog can do it, no matter their size, shape or age. All family members are encouraged to attend, kids age 8+ please.
Pre-requisite for this class is Intro to Positive Training
Fridays 6:30pm to 7:30pm
April 26th through May 24th, no class on May 10th
$100 for 4-weeks
Category(ies)

Local Dog friendly Events- April 26, 2013-Low Cost Vaccinations and Spay/Neuter

Date/Time
Date(s) - Friday, April 26, 2013
1:00 PM - 6:00 PM
Low Cost Vaccinations and Spay/Neuter Sureries
9995 Monroe Dr #201
Dallas, TX 75229
Open
Fridays 8am for surgery check in
Fridays 1p-6p for vaccinations and outpatient visits
Prices – Dogs
Rabies     $10
DHP (Distemper/Parvo)     $20
Bordetella     $13
Intestinal Parasite Screen (Fecal)     $15
Heartworm Test     $25
6 month injectable Heartworm Prevention $35-65
Microchip    $35
Dog Combo - Includes: DHP, Rabies, Bordetella     $35
Dog Super Combo - Includes: Dog Combo + HW Test     $55
Puppy Package - Includes entire puppy series: 3x DHP, Rabies, Bordatella, Intestinal Parasite Screen, 3 dewormings ($120 Value!)     $95
Puppy Package Plus - —Includes Puppy Package plus heartworm prevention pills and injection at 6 months of age ($210 value)     $150
Canine Neuter — Price Varies in this range with pet’s weight     $65-95
Canine Spay — Price Varies in this range with pet’s weight. Females must be under 35 lbs and 7 years of age     $75-95
Exam     $25
To Schedule a Surgery, please visit outreachclinic.com
Category(ies)

Dogs and Carbohydrates — A Surprising Secret Revealed

Dogs and Carbohydrates — A Surprising Secret Revealed

Friday, April 19, 2013

Support your local shelter!

Support your local shelter!

Good information to have if you like to feed ducks!

Good information to have if you like to feed ducks!
Did you know....

Good information on how to properly remove ticks from your dog.



 

How to Properly Remove Ticks: Common Myths and Foolproof Methods

It's going to be summertime soon, when the living is easy — unless you have a pet who will be spending lots of time in the great outdoors. Spring and summer are the most popular (and prolific) seasons for ticks, and they’re a problem you should be prepared for. “Ticks are dangerous,” says Dr. Rick Alleman, DVM, Ph.D., a researcher on vector-borne diseases and a professor of veterinary medicine at the University of Florida. “They transmit much more than Lyme disease.” In fact, some can emit as many as four or five pathogens, and cause infections in humans and pets. If a large number of ticks infest a pet, they can suck so much blood that your pet can become anemic — a good reason to nip the prospect of ticks in the bud.
Fortunately, there’s preventive medicine that can protect your pet from picking them up in the first place, as well as foolproof techniques to remove them. But there are also popular myths out there that won’t actually fix the problem. Read on for expert advice on what you should do when ticks attack.

4 Common Tick Removal Myths

Petroleum jelly, burning them off, freezing them off, nail polish. These are just a few of the common folk remedies that pop up when you google tick removal. And all of them won't work — and have the potential to further hurt your pet.
“These techniques are not viable options,” says Dr. Alleman. “The problem is that I’ve never seen a tick back out. Their head remains embedded in the animal’s skin.” And this is precisely the problem with petroleum jelly and nail polish: Pet owners think that they can drown or kill the tick, but the head stays in place.
Then there's the burning method. Fact: Lighting a match anywhere near your pet is the very definition of playing with fire. “This should be common sense,” says Sabrina Wehrhan, lead veterinary technician at St. James Animal Hospital in St. James, New York. “The dog has hair. The hair is going to go up in flames.”
She also recommends not toying with the idea of freezing ticks, which some owners try to do by using an aerosol-based liquid freezing gel. “For one, you’re not a veterinary professional, so you won't know how long to hold it on,” says Wehrhan. “I’ve seen people just spray and spray.”
The other myth Wehrhan has often heard: Once you successfully take a tick off, you can burn it. “The tick is actually toxic,” she says, “When it pops, it can let off a toxic fume that can be harmful to pets and infants.”

The Best Way to Remove a Tick

“Simply pull them out using tweezers or a tick remover,” says Dr. Alleman.
The latter is a tool that's specially designed for safely and quickly removing ticks. “There are a couple of types,” explains Dr. Alleman. “One functions as blunt-ended, plastic tweezers. The other I’ve seen is called the Tick Key, a little gizmo that resembles a bottle opener. The hole in it comes down to a very thin point, so you can kind of slip the tick into this hole, slide the tick down to the end and basically lift — just like you would remove a cap off a bottle — and it pulls the tick out.”
Your technique is equally important: Start by parting your dog’s fur where you see a tick, and then “pull it out by the body, so as not to twist or pinch the head off,” says Dr. Alleman.
And be sure to take extra care if you're using a tick-removal aid, like tweezers. “With tweezers, you need to be careful that you don’t squeeze the head and neck of the tick so hard that you break it,” he says. Instead, apply enough pressure to grab the body right where the head and neck attach — and don’t leave the head embedded.

Monday, April 15, 2013

Up coming dog friendly events- 5th Annual Hope Gala benefiting Operation Kindnessm Sunday April 21

5th Annual Hope Gala benefiting Operation Kindness

Date/Time
Date(s) - Sunday, April 21, 2013
7:00 PM - 10:00 PM
  Please join us for our 5th Annual Hope Gala at the new location- Sambuca in Uptown Dallas! $200 admission per person includes open bar and a gourmet four-course plated dinner with reserved seating for you and your guests. This popular event has sold out each year! More details soon…

Up coming dog friendly events- Frisco Dog Park Talks with Dr. Julaine Hunter Sunday April 21

Frisco Dog Park Talks with Dr. Julaine Hunter

Date/Time
Date(s) - Sunday, April 21, 2013
2:00 PM - 2:30 PM
julaine_and_puppy5
Dr. Julaine Hunter will present a series of Dog Park Talks that will cover a variety of dog behavior, training, care and dog park topics.
April 21: Dog Care 101
Frisco Dog Park Website:
http://www.friscodogpark.org/
For More Information, contact Event Organizers at:
sam@powerpublicrelations.com
(972) 292-6506

Up coming dog friendly events- Chiesta! Saturday, April 20, 2013

Chiesta!

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 20, 2013
11:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Join us for Chihuahua Rescue & Transport’s 12th Annual Chiesta! Admission is Free!
Chihuahua Races; Doggie Costume Contest; Food Trucks; Raffles; Vendors; Photos; Door Prizes; Cake Walk; and more! Fun for the whole family!
chiesta_flyer_2013

Up coming dog friendly events- Prosper Pooch Party Saturday April 20

Prosper Pooch Party

Date/Time
Date(s) - Saturday, April 20, 2013
10:00 AM - 1:00 PM ProsperPoochLogo2013Bring the whole family, including those precious pooches out to American Bank of Texas for our 6th Annual barkingly fun day…
30+ Vendors with pet-related items for sale
Low Cost Vaccinations
Agility Demonstrations
http://prosperpoochparty.org
Admittance is FREE!
Donations of dog food are encouraged, and any dog food donated will go to dog rescue groups.
Drop your dog food off at the Donation Station at the event, and receive a free t-shirt while supplies last!
Hot Dogs and Sodas will be served
On-Site Pet Photography
Contests Such As:
Looks Most Like Owner
Best Dressed • Best Hairstyle
Tiniest • Best Trick
Longest Ears • Most Robust
Best Bark • Longest Tail
Tallest
For more information, please contact event organizers at melanie.goodman@abtexas.com or (214) 618-5140.
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A properly socialized dog is a happy dog!









Properly Socializing Your Canine for Dog-to-Dog Introductions

How to safely introduce dogs to one and other. Proper dog-to-dog introductions is key to safe dog walking and interacting.

You’re contemplating the addition of another canine family member to your pack. You’ve thought it through and are convinced that it’s the right time. Perhaps you have your eye on a homeless dog at your local shelter or a rescue dog staying temporarily in a foster home. Maybe the long-awaited puppy from that carefully researched breeder is due soon, or a friend or family member has asked you to take in a dog that they must rehome. However you plan to acquire your new canine companion, if you already have dogs in your home, you’ll need to prepare for the potentially stressful process known as “new dog introduction.”

Such was the case for us recently when my husband Paul, director of the Humane Society of Washington County, Maryland, warned me that he was falling for Missy, an eight-year-old red merle Australian Shepherd who had been surrendered by her owner to the shelter. Even before our decision to bring her home was final, knowing the importance of dog-dog introductions, I began planning the introduction process.
You may not always have the luxury of a safe fenced yard for introductions. Do on-leash greetings this way – with leashes loose. Both dogs appear reasonably relaxed about the greeting, although the Border collie is a little worried.

There are a number of factors to keep in mind that can increase the likelihood of a positive outcome when introducing a new dog into your home. A peaceful first introduction sets the stage for long term relationships. The more heavily you can weigh the odds in your favor for that first encounter, the greater your chance for lifelong peace in the pack. The factors to keep in mind include:
• Timing
• Location
• Number of skilled handlers available
• Knowing and understanding – to the greatest extent possible – the personalities and histories of all the dogs involved

With four dogs already in our family, including Dubhy, our dog-reactive Scottish Terrier, new-dog introductions aren’t simple. Fortunately, we’ve done it enough to know where the high-risk danger zones are with our pack, how best to avoid or overcome them, and how to make optimum use of the above factors.

Timing
It’s best to add a new dog to your home when things are otherwise calm and reasonably stress-free. Allow ample time for a leisurely introduction process and a low-key adjustment period with adequate supervision. You’ll also need time to be able to iron out any wrinkles that may appear. This may mean taking time off work, in case your dogs don’t hit it off instantly. Holidays are generally not the ideal time for introductions unless, for you, “home for the holidays,” means lots of quiet time spent alone with your fur-family.

Of course, you can’t always control the timing. Many breeders and adopters have a fairly inflexible preconceived idea of the appropriate age at which a puppy should be transferred to his forever home. A friend or family member may be under personal pressures – landlord dictums, relationship issues, risks to children in the home, or municipal limit laws or breed bans – that require prompt rehoming.

Introducing Missy
A shelter or rescue dog may be facing a ticking clock that dictates a speedy adoption. An outbreak of parvovirus at Paul’s shelter meant that Missy had to come home posthaste, to avoid her exposure to the very contagious disease.

The timing could have been better. I was two days away from hosting a Reactive Rover Camp at my home. This meant that it would be out of the question to temporarily keep the barking Aussie in a stall in the barn – where my training center is located – in order to facilitate slow introductions over a several day period with Paul in attendance. I knew Missy’s barking would render the training environment too stressful for reactive dogs to stay sub-threshold and respond well to our counter-conditioning and desensitization program. We had to get the job done quickly, in order to transition the new girl into our family and our house.

Location, location, location
It’s best to introduce dogs in neutral territory – ideally outdoors, in a large, open, safely fenced space. The more trapped a dog feels, the more her stress will push her toward defensive aggression. Plus, when you do introductions in one dog’s territory, it gives him the home-field advantage, and you risk displays of territorial aggression.
Two-on-one is not such a good idea: The Border Collie is looking more nervous and offering appeasement behaviors, with her ears pinned back and a hind leg lifted.
Optimum options include a fenced yard other than your own, an off-leash dog park at low-use time (as in no other dogs present), a tennis court (caution – many tennis courts understandably prohibit dogs), or a large, open, uncluttered indoor area such as someone’s unfinished basement.
Introducing Missy
Our only large, fenced, outdoor open space is our backyard, to which our dogs had, naturally, already staked a territorial claim. Our next best choice for introductions was the training center – a 20' x 80' space with very little furniture. We opted for that space for Missy to meet three of our dogs, and the backyard for the fourth.
Number of skilled handlers
Ideally, you’ll want one handler per dog. One skilled handler, that is. Someone who panics and intervenes unnecessarily can botch the whole job by adding stress to dogs who are still sorting out relationships.
Barring skilled handlers, at least find handlers who are good at following instructions and don’t succumb easily to hysterical behavior. If you can’t find those, you’re better off with fewer handlers, although you should have at least one other person present, if for no other reason then to help you if the situation gets out of hand.

Introducing Missy
Life is rarely ideal. Because of our truncated time frame for introductions with Missy, our options for multiple handlers were limited. Paul had to work, my other trainers weren’t available, so it was up to me and my full-time associate, Shirley, to play referee for our pack introductions. I was only really worried about Dubhy’s reaction to Missy; it’s difficult to predict how he’ll respond to a new dog, but we have added two canines to our family successfully since the emergence of his dog reactive/aggressive behavior, so my hopes were high.

Personalities and histories
You may not know much about the newcomer, especially if she’s a rescue or shelter dog. You should, however, have a pretty good sense of your own dogs’ canine social skills. Do they play well with others at the dog park? During playtime at good manners class? With their own packmates? How do they act with doggie visitors to their home? During chance encounters with other canines on the streets?

If you have reason to believe that your dogs are anything less than gregarious with conspecifics (others of their own species) due to a history of aggressive behavior with other dogs, or if you just aren’t confident about refereeing the introductions yourself, you might do well to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional. She will be able to help you read and understand your dogs’ body language, and optimize the potential for success. (For more information about translating canine body language, see “Say What?” Whole Dog Journal November 2005, and “Can We All Just Get Along?” December 2005.)

I hope you’ve already given great consideration to good personality matches when you selected your new dog. If you have a dog in your pack who likes to assert himself, you’re wise to choose a new dog who’s happy to maintain a lower profile in the hierarchy. If your current dog is a shrinking violet, she’ll be happiest with a new companion who doesn’t bully her mercilessly. If you have one of those canine gems who gets along with everyone, then you have more adoption options.

If you want your gem to be able to be “top dog,” then look for a soft, appeasing-type dog. If you don’t care where your easygoing dog ends up in the new hierarchy, then you have the entire canine personality continuum to choose from.

Introducing Missy
We knew our personal canine characters would present some challenges. A quick analysis revealed the following about the dogs we wanted to mingle with Missy:

  • Fifteen-year-old Katie, a very geriatric, arthritic, spayed, 45-pound Australian Kelpie, with a long history of asserting herself with the other members of the Miller pack. Literally on her last legs, Katie was approaching the last few weeks of her life, and had difficulty getting around. Her crankiness was exacerbated by her physical problems, but her mobility was so limited that she presented a low-level threat. 
  • Seven-year-old Dubhy, an assertive, neutered, 25-pound Scottish Terrier, the loner of the group. He gets along well with the rest of the pack, but rarely engages in play with them. His reactivity developed when he was about 18 months old. I’ve worked with him to reduce his reactivity threshold distance to about three feet, although he’s better with small dogs.
  • Three-year-old Lucy, a lively, assertive, spayed, 35-pound Cardigan Welsh Corgi, who is the only one of the group who challenges Katie (regularly). She tends to act submissive when meeting a new dog, but guards certain places, objects, and me.
  • Two-year-old Bonnie, a soft, appeasing, spayed, 35-pound Scottie/Corgi mix who gets along with absolutely everyone.
  • Eight-year-old Missy, an appeasing, 40-pound female Australian Shepherd, possibly intact (not spayed), mild to moderate lameness in her right hind leg/hip. Missy had lived with other dogs before and has had at least four prior homes.
Introduction process
I prefer introducing a new dog to the easier dogs first, one at a time. Assuming all goes well with the one-on-ones, I try a threesome, adding an additional dog as their behavior allows.

The process I use and recommend to clients is to start with dogs on leashes on opposite sides of an enclosed space. Try to keep leashes loose, if possible. Watch the dogs’ behavior. They should seem interested in each other, alert without excessive arousal. Ideally you’ll see tails wagging at half-mast; soft, wriggling body postures; play bows; ears back; squinty eyes; no direct eye contact. These are clear expressions of non-aggressive social invitation.

Warning signs include stiffness in the body; standing tall; ears pricked hard forward; growling; hard direct eye contact; stiffly raised, fast-wagging tails; lunging on the leash; and aggressive barking.
If you see social behavior, proceed with an approach until the dogs are about 10 feet apart. If they continue to show unambiguous signs of friendliness, drop the leashes and let them meet. I prefer to let dogs meet and greet off-leash; leashes tend to interfere with the dogs’ ability to greet normally, and can actually induce dogs to give false body language signals.

For example, a tight leash can stiffen and raise a dog’s front end, causing her to look more tense and provocative than she means to be, which in turn can cause the other dog to react on the offensive. A defensive dog who wants to retreat may feel trapped because of the leash and act aggressively because she can’t move away.

Initially, leave the leashes on, dragging freely on the floor, so you can grab them and separate the dogs easily if necessary. Monitor the greeting. You are likely to see some normal jockeying for position and some tension, as they sniff and circle, and then erupt into play. As soon as you can tell that they’re getting along, remove leashes and let them play unencumbered. Watch them! You want to ensure that the play doesn’t escalate into excessive arousal (which can lead to aggression), but remember that it’s normal and acceptable for dogs to growl and bite each other in play. As long as both dogs are enjoying the action, it’s a good thing.

If you see warning signs as you approach with the dogs on leash, you’ll need to proceed more slowly. Most commonly you’ll see behavior ranging somewhere between completely relaxed and friendly and outright aggressive. You’ll need to judge whether the intensity of the behavior is high enough that you need to stop and seek professional assistance, or low enough that you can proceed with caution.

If you do decide to proceed, interrupt any of the dogs’ prolonged, hard eye contact by having the handlers divert their dog’s attention with bits of tasty treats. Continue to work with the dogs in the others’ presence, watching for signs of decreasing arousal. Keeping the dogs as far apart as possible in the enclosed area, walk them around on loose leashes, gradually bringing them closer together until they are walking parallel to each other.

Stay calm!
It’s important that you stay calm and relaxed during this process. If you jerk or tighten the leash or yell at the dogs, you’ll add stress to the situation and make it more difficult for them to relax.
Say you see signs that the dogs have relaxed with each other; this is where your experience and instincts come into play. You may decide to proceed with dropped-leash greetings. Or you may choose to end the introduction for the time being. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and do several more on-leash sessions to make sure the dogs are comfortable with each other. Meanwhile, you’ll need to manage the dogs so they don’t have free access to each other. If you’re not confident in your judgment about body language, you may choose to enlist the help of a professional at this point in the process.

If tensions between the dogs escalate or maintain at the same level of intensity despite your on-leash work over several sessions, the wise choice may be to look for a different dog to adopt into your home. Alternatively, you may want to do ongoing work with a behavior professional to try to make the relationship work, knowing that management may be a large part of your life for the foreseeable future.

Be careful if you see no interaction between the two dogs you’re introducing. What appears to be calm acceptance of each other may in fact be avoidance, where neither dog is comfortable with the other and they deal with it by not dealing with it. The problem with this is that sooner or later the dogs will interact if they’re both living in your home, and the discomfort may well develop into aggression. I really want to see some interaction between dogs in order to make a decision about adoption.

Introducing Missy
I chose to introduce Lucy and Missy first. Shirley held Lucy on-leash at one end of the training center, while I entered with Missy on-leash at the other end. Both dogs appeared relaxed and interested in each other. We approached to a distance of 10 feet and dropped leashes. The two dogs sniffed and circled, with Lucy offering appeasement behaviors: ears back, lowered body posture, corners of mouth slightly pulled back, and squinty eyes. 


After a moment we removed the leashes, and the two engaged in some half-hearted play. Then Lucy walked over to the rack that holds dog toys, asking for me to throw her ball. I complied, and she happily chased the ball while Missy stayed at my feet. When Lucy raced back with the ball, Missy growled at her. Note to self: Missy has been here less than 24 hours and she’s already resource-guarding me. This could be problematic, especially since Lucy also displays owner-guarding and space-guarding behaviors. Hmmm.

Missy continued to display occasional mild guarding behavior while Lucy played. Her behavior didn’t escalate and Lucy didn’t take offense. I decided to table my concerns for the time being and proceed with the next introduction.

Bonnie was next. I was pretty unconcerned about this introduction; Bonnie gets along with everyone. My lack of concern was justified. We quickly proceeded to off-leash play, and Bonnie’s very appeasing attitude elicited no owner-guarding response whatsoever from Missy.

I then reintroduced Lucy to the pair, and all went reasonably well. Missy seemed less concerned with Lucy’s proximity to me with Bonnie in the mix, perhaps because her attention was divided.
We decided that Missy had probably had enough for one day, and put off the introductions to the two more difficult Miller dogs to the next day. The start of Reactive Rover Camp the day after that loomed large on the horizon. We had to get Missy out of the barn and into the house!

Missy’s introduction to Dubhy was my greatest concern. I proceeded with caution, and my fears were quickly justified. When I entered the training center with Dubhy, I had a pressurized can of citronella spray (Direct Stop/Spray Shield) in my pocket, high value treats in one hand, Dubhy’s leash in the other. As soon as he spotted Missy at the far end of the training center, Dubhy “turned on.” His head and tail went up, and his normally soft mouth got hard – I could feel his teeth on my fingers as he took treats from me. Happily, he remembered his “Reactive Rover” lessons, and quickly looked from Missy to me for the treats, but there was still tension in his body and arousal in his brain.

Shirley and I walked the two dogs around the training center, gradually bringing the dogs closer together. Dubhy’s mouth softened and his tail lowered as he grew accustomed to Missy’s presence.

We eventually brought the dogs within three feet of each other, and Dubhy continued to be reasonably relaxed. I could see that he was still somewhat on alert, but I decided to make the leap, and told Shirley to drop Missy’s leash. Shirley looked at me as if I was nuts, but dropped the leash as requested. I dropped Dubhy’s, and he immediately lunged at Missy’s face with a ferocious snarl.
My heart sank as I leaped forward and sprayed Dubhy with a long blast of citronella to halt his attack. Missy had turned her face away from her attacker, and the spray shoots a very direct, narrow stream, so I could avoid punishing Missy for Dubhy’s aggression.

This was a deal breaker; I wasn’t willing to live with a lifetime of management between these two. If I hadn’t been on a tight schedule for integrating Missy into the household, I would have separated them with their leashes instead of using the spray, and reverted to a gradual introduction process. In fact, I wouldn’t even have gotten so close, given Dubhy’s tension and past history of dog-related aggression. I knew I was pushing the agenda already, by bringing them together quickly.

Dubhy stopped in his tracks and gave me a surprised look. The tension immediately vanished from his body and he glanced at Missy, then looked back at me. He stepped forward and sniffed Missy. She avoided eye contact by turning her head away, then stepped away from him.

Her response to him was so appropriate, and his changed body language so remarkable, that I stifled my first impulse to stop the introduction, and let them continue. Good thing! The interaction proceeded without any more aggression, and Dubhy has been perfect with Missy ever since; go figure! I don’t recommend using an aversive to try to make dog-dog relationships work. Any time an aversive is used there is a significant risk of increasing the negative association with the other dog: Dubhy could have been angrier with Missy if he perceived her as the cause of the spray. I was lucky that it had the opposite effect in this case.

My intent in using the spray with Dubhy was simply to interrupt the aggression to protect Missy. I fully expected that his behavior would preclude our adopting Missy into our home. I was surprised and grateful that it served to modify his behavior, apparently permanently – a happy accidental outcome of my crisis intervention.

As expected, Missy’s introduction to Katie in our backyard was uneventful, due to Katie’s mobility challenges. The aged Kelpie snarked at Missy briefly as the Aussie passed her on the back porch, but Missy, bless her, just ignored Katie’s rude behavior and headed out to the yard to play in the grass. One by one I released the other dogs to join Missy in the yard, all without incident. Missy was home.
Now, a few months later, Missy is doing well. She no longer has to deal with Katie, who passed away a few weeks after Missy’s arrival. Missy and Lucy occasionally posture over favored spaces in the house, but these incidents are minor and manageable. We’ve not had a whisper of inappropriate behavior from Dubhy toward Missy since his citronella experience – in fact, the two of them occasionally play together. Bonnie, as always, is no trouble at all. I hope all of your new family introductions go as well as ours did.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Lost dog in Aubrey!

Lost dog in Aubrey!
If anyone sees or finds a beautiful Black Lab pictured below, please call 214-801-4057. His name is Max, and we lost him Sunday night in Aubrey. He was a very important member of our family and we are praying for his safe return home!

TODAY! Check out the Grand Slam Raffle & Auction benefiting ARF at Dodie's Place in Allen, TX.

It's TODAY! Check out the Grand Slam Raffle & Auction benefiting ARF at Dodie's Place in Allen, TX.
The time has come!!!!!!!!!!! TODAY is the big day! We finally get to see all of our volunteers hard work come to fruition. The ARF Grand Slam Raffle and Live Auction is happening! This event supports The Animal Rescue Foundation of Texas. W...See More

TODAY from 10a to 12noon - low cost vaccinations at the UNT Campus in Denton!

TODAY from 10a to 12noon - low cost vaccinations at the UNT Campus in Denton!

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Do Dogs See in Color?


Do Dogs See in Color?

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Yes, like us, our dogs can see in color. However, their perception of various colors is not exactly the same as it is for humans. As a matter of fact, dogs can’t distinguish between yellow, orange, red, or green. But, they can see a variety of shades of blue, and can even tell between very closely related tones of gray that are not normally discernible to people. To put it simply, dogs can see in color; only that the colors that our four-legged friends see are not rich as what you and I usually see.

The Reason Behind Your Dog’s Color Limitations:
Our eyes and those of our pooches generally consist of cones, or special light catching cells that respond to color. Because dogs have fewer cones as compared to humans, it suggests that their perception of color is not as vivid or as penetrating as ours. Nevertheless, the key to color vision is not only dependent on having these special lighting cells. Having many different kinds of cones, each set to different light wavelengths, is also vital to seeing color. We have three different types of cones, and the dynamics of these cells give us our rich, full-range, and intense color vision. Dogs, like many people with so called “color-blindness” have only 2 types of these cones.

The Research:
Jay Neitz of the University of Carolina tried to test the color vision of canines. For several test trials, dogs were presented with three different light panels in a row; two of which come in the same color, while the third panel was different. The dogs’ objective was to look for the one that was not the same as the others and then to press that panel. If the dog subject was correct, he was then immediately rewarded with a treat that the workstation dispensed to the cup underneath that panel.

The researcher confirmed that pooches actually see color. However, its many fewer colors as compared to normal people do. To be more specific, instead of seeing the rainbow as ROYGBIV (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet), dogs see a very dark gray, darker yellow (kind of brown, light yellow, gray, light blue, and dark blue. In other words, dogs only see the colors of the world as essentially gray, blue, and yellow.

How to Make it Easier For Your Dog:
The VisionSmart ball for dogs is made with high contrasting white and dark purple color blocks, making it easier for dogs to see.

Oddly enough, many dog toy manufacturers don’t take this limited color vision into account when designing toys for dogs. For a dog, the bright red ball you’ve just tossed for them to fetch has essentially disappeared into the bright green grass – both colors which appear brownish or gray to your pup. Luckily, they can usually find it using their exceptional sense of smell. (Do you ever notice your dog finding toys with his nose instead of his eyes? That’s why!)

To make it a little easier on your pet to find the ball you’ve tossed for him, try to find toys specially colored for dogs’ limited color vision. Find a toy or ball with highly contrasting colors, like bright white and deep purple – colors seen most vividly to dogs, and you’ll see he has a much easier time finding it in the grass.

It's always sunny when you have a dog!

It's always sunny when you have a dog!

Arlington Explosive Detection Canine Unit

Arlington Explosive Detection Canine Unit

The Arlington Fire Department is open to the second-largest explosive detection canine unit in North Texas behind DFW Airport. The seven Labradors don't just work in Arlington.

The Arlington Fire Department is open to the second-largest explosive detection canine unit in North Texas behind DFW Airport. The seven Labradors don't just work in Arlington.

They look like regular dogs. But can a regular dog sniff out 19,000 different explosive chemicals?
The Arlington Fire Department Bomb Squad's specially trained labs are trained to do just that.
 
“You can’t beat the nose. They can smell what we can't see. They can pick up an odor distances away,” said Darin Niederhaus with AFD’s Bomb Squad.
 
The team of seven dogs sweeps cars, buildings and venues like Cowboys Stadium and Rangers Ballpark for major events or when high profile dignitaries are in attendance in search of bombs and firearms.
 
The dogs can pick up the scent of anything from shell casings to high explosives.
 
“Around the world explosives and IEDs are becoming more prominent these guys give us the ability to pick them up prior to ever getting into large crowds,” said Niederhaus.
 
The newest addition to the unit is a yellow lab named Jasper. He is a vapor wake detection dog -- trained to ID potential suicide bombers.
 
“[Jasper] has a stronger nose than most explosive detection K-9s and he can detect moving scents through the air,” said Niederhaus.
 
“Training never stops. Training is ongoing. We have to keep the dogs fresh on the odors, different scenarios, different venues. We try to get them everything we can so that way it's never our first time going in there,” added Niederhaus.
 
The dogs run the city about $130,000 - that covers everything from the training to the vehicles they come in.
 
The city has the second-largest explosive detection canine unit in north Texas.

Monday, April 8, 2013

Upcomming dog friendly events Sunday, April 14

Dallas Pet CPR & First Aid Seminar

Date/Time
Date(s) - Sunday, April 14, 2013
10:00 AM - 6:00 PM

In Honor of April being National Pet First Aid Month,
Dallas Pet CPR & First Aid Presents…

The PetSaver Seminar
that could save your pet’s life!

To register, visit: http://april2013petsaver.eventbrite.com/ 
For more information, contact Beth Bowers at Beth@DallasPetFirstAid.com or (214) 476-9938.
ONCE IN A LIFETIME SPECIAL for APRIL SEMINAR ONLY!
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Will you know what to do when your animals need you most?
“Guaranteed to be the most complete &
comprehensive training in DFW!”
Beth and Burt CPR Demo
Beth Bowers
Longest Active Pet Tech Instructor in DFW!
Certified Pet CPR, First Aid & Care Instructor
Veterinary Technician
ABKA Pet Care Technician
Over 15 years experience with
Veterinary Medicine,
Canine Nutrition,
Canine Behavior & Training
& Dog Daycare/Boarding
Facility Management!
___________________
PetSaver™ Program
Includes all of the Following:
Pet CPR & First Aid
Caring For Your Senior Pet-izen™
Dental Care For Your Pets
(Most Complete Training &
Absolutely the Best Value!)
PetSaver Registration Includes Handbook, Certificate, Starter First Aid Kit with Muzzle for Safety & Complimentary Breakfast!
To register, visit: http://april2013petsaver.eventbrite.com/ 
For more information, contact Beth Bowers at Beth@DallasPetFirstAid.com or (214) 476-9938.
___________________
“Beth’s CPR & First Aid Seminar is, without question, the most comprehensive and enjoyable pet care class I’ve ever taken. She uses her own experience as a veterinary technician and dog care facility manger to create meaningful scenarios and experiences that you can apply to your own pets. Beth ensures that every student understands each technique by allowing practice on both stuffed and demonstrations with live dogs, which makes the instruction more memorable. The 8 hour class simply flew by! It was a great value and I will be taking it every year from now on.”
~Yvonne Ybarra – DallasDogLife.com~

According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) 1-out-of-4 more pets would survive, if just one pet first aid technique was applied prior to getting emergency veterinary care. WE TEACH OVER 50 SKILLS TO HELP SAVE YOUR PET!

The PetSaver™ Program covers the following topics:
Skill: Restraining & Muzzling
“Any pet that is pain or is going to be moved into pain, can and will bite.”
PetSaver Handbook
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Primary Assessment
“In the first 15-25 seconds of you being on the scene you will know what to do and what actions to take.”
PetSaver Handbook
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Rescue Breathing
“The pet patient had a heartbeat but is not breathing”
PetSaver Handbook
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Canine & Feline CPR

“The pet patient has no heart beat and is not breathing.”
PetSaver Handbook
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Choking Management
Conscious Choking, Unconscious Choking (Witnessed & Found)
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Bleeding & Shock Management
Restraint, Muzzle, Elevation, Direct Pressure, Pressure Points, Immobilization, Shock Management & Transportation.
Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Snout-To-Tail™
Assessment for Injury & Wellness

“A deliberate and systematic assessment from the snout to the tail of the pet with intent and purpose looking for any injuries the pet does not present to you or for wellness to create a base-line of your pet’s health.”

Hands-on Skill Practice
Skill: Assessing the Pet’s Vitals
“If you know what is normal for your pet then you will be able to quickly recognize when your pet is presenting not-normal.”
Hands-on Skill Practice
Handbook: Pet First Aid Kit Contents
Equipment & Supplies for Putting Together Your Own Pet First Aid Kit
Lecture: Insect Bites & Stings & Snakebite
Definition, Causes, Signs & Actions For Survival
Lecture: Heat & Cold Injuries
Definition, Causes, Signs & Actions For Survival
Lecture: Seizures
Definition, Causes, Signs & Actions For Survival
Lecture: Caring For Your Senior Pet-izen
Senior Pet-izen Care, Signs & Symptoms, Risk Factors & Euthanasia
Lecture: Dental Care For Your Pets
Dental Care Facts, Periodontal Disease, Risks, Preventative Care & Cleanings
One of the skills we teach is the Snout-to-Tail ™ Assessment.
Read how this saved one pet’s life . . .

A pet owner who took our class loved her little dog because she did her homework assignment of the Snout-To-Tail ™ Assessment. Where you go from Snout-To-Tail ™ with deliberate intent and purpose creating a baseline of your pet’s health. Also, so that you know more of what is normal for your pet, so you can more quickly recognize what is not normal for your pet. She found mammary tumors growing on her dog. She took her to the vet, who confirmed the diagnosis. Luckily she caught it early enough that treatment was successful. However, the vet did tell her that if she had let that go just another five or six months, the outcome may not have been as good. This simple skill that can take only a few minutes added thousands of minutes to this pet’s life.

When I tell this story in the classroom, some people wonder how she didn’t notice the mammary tumors in the first place. The thing is that she never really put her hands on her dog, from Snout-To-Tail ™ , with deliberate intent and purpose, like we teach in the class. She said she would come home from work, make her dog dinner, have dinner herself, her dog would sit on her lap and she would pet it.

–Used with permission from www.PetTech.net
To register, visit: http://april2013petsaver.eventbrite.com/ 
For more information, contact Beth Bowers at Beth@DallasPetFirstAid.com or (214) 476-9938.